Snow conditions on the glaciers were near perfect for foot travel, and the rockfall that normally threatens the approach to the bugaboosnowpatch col. I tried to link first two pitches with 60m, but end up short 35m. I just made myself some cowboy coffee hot dang, it brings back good memories of the goololfashioned tent camping, lightpacking style of romping around i used to do nearly every time i went into the woods. Brent butler recently posted a mountain conditions report here and said, the upper 20 feet or so of the bugaboosnowpatch col is melted out. Mount hinman is one of those peaks for me where the appeal lies more in the journey than in the destination itself. Based on recent reports it seems the spc is melting out pretty early this year. These equate to grip positions, so an example of four exercises would be.
Perhaps it was the perennial august snowstorms at the bugs that convinced me that this area was more suited to skis than rock shoes. Are others easily approached with deteriorating glacier conditions. Straightforward cramponing was all that was required to get up or down. Kain route climbers to find themselves descending in snow, whiteout conditions. Climbers injured in dangerous bugaboosnowpatch col gripped. Bugaboosnowpatch col conditions british columbiacanada. The purpose of stanley smiths trip was to search for two men who were lost while making their way from squamish to chilcotin. Jun 23, 2015 1is it still possible to climb bugaboo spire and descend via the rappels down the bugaboosnowpatch col. Bugaboo conditions beta first week of july mountain project. May, 2016 trip report by phil tomlinson photos by matt breakey additional participants. We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better. Mike blazed a great trail up for us, but the switchbacks were seriously tough to make. However, in its current state, this avenue is a horrific death trap, with lots of very loose rock, and big slides coming down it with frightening regularity.
Do the rappels place you far enough down the call to make an easy decent after rapping. Steep slopes that receive sun like the bugaboo snowpatch col and upper bugaboo glacier were out for us early in the day. Open crimp, twofinger pocket middlering fingers, wide pinch, sloper. Adventures nw is the regions favorite outdoor recreation, sports and lifestyle magazine, published since 2006 and focusing on all the area has to offer casual and serious athletes, avid and. As we approached the glacier, the sun was rising perfectly on time and it was a picturesque view.
With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. Conditions remain excellent on all of the rock climbs while all of the main access routes are holding in there too. By the way, the approach to the bugaboosnowpatch col can be a problem late in. We explained our situation to them and they offered to help us descend.
This posed a problem since the approach andor descent tofrom a lot of routes passes through this col, and the rockfall left dangerous conditions there. We got geared up and headed towards pigeon spire which is up and over the bugaboo snowpatch col. Christine mireault, mike persson this trip report has been reposted from my handy dandy blog. Having been granted the proverbial green light to take a break from his parental obligations, and myself having been cleared for a day off from my caretaker duties agata recently. Once past an initial face of class 3 scrambling, the route follows just to the right of the prominent and obvious ridge ascending from the snowpatchbugaboo col. On the descent we did 6 standard rappels plus 2 optional rappels, and then downclimbed the steep snow from bugaboosnowpatch col. Directly climb or switchback up to the snowpatch spirebugaboo spire saddle to. It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write trip reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more.
The flys right rear tire was showing some metal belt and i needed to stop in chilliwack for. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. The gendarme was quite a deal for me given the ice but with a top rope belay it wasnt too too bad. This col gives access to some of the bugaboo spire climbs including the very popular kain route and pigeon spire which is supposed to be one of the best 5. Because a helicopter was going out that evening to pick up a band for a party, they. Here we climbed a mixture of snow and scree, following some bootpack and some fainter bits of use trail. The bugsrogers traverse is a one of those objectives that has been built up to nearly mythical status.
Its easy scrambling, less than grade 10, but it is exposed. Reid and matt on the south summit of bugaboo with howser in the distance. How to pay a helicopter to drop you off some place really. Thanks for the beta, way to fend off those snaffles until daylight. Its best to attempt this section in dry conditions. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. First day on the move, and the very first thing we had to do was skin over the bugaboo snowpatch col loaded down with 50lb packs. Stanley smiths travels int eh coast mountains, 1893. Like many north american climbers, i have visited some of the classic routes at rogers pass and the bugaboos.
As was mentioned in an mcr last week, the right hand exit to the bugaboo snowpatch col is still in better condition than the left hand exit see. New bloggerbased archive for the association of canadian mountain guides public mountain conditions report mailing list. As part of the rei coop family, were dedicated to making websites and mobile apps that help outdoor enthusiasts connect, share information and. It was a little tricky going through sections of snow up on the route in only. Chic led us spoton to the grand col in zero visibility conditions, relying on the map and. The safety of our travelers and residents is our highest priority and the colorado tourism office cto is committed to providing accurate and updated information about public health conditions in colorado. Roped travel on the glacier is a must, as is some type of ice axe and crampons. Autumn 2015 the alps bolivia croatia alaska and much more the journal of the army mountaineering association carve your own legend. We headed down to mammoth pool to check out the climbing possibilities. We followed heliskiers tracks to the bugaboosnowpatch col and found the descent easy. Make sure to well extend the third pitch, because of its nature. Post a reply to bugaboo conditions, snowpatchbugabool col alte log in to reply.
Bugaboo conditions, snowpatchbugabool col alternatives. Once at the base we met two other guys who were getting ready to climb the same route. Oh, yeah, and i almost got taken out by a climber skidding out of control down the bugaboosnowpatch col. Also a man who went for help and fell and broke some ribs was lifted out at same time. The west ridge of pigeon spire is an amazing route and we have tons of photos that we cant wait to share. Ive had to leave my headlamp on blinking mode all night and pull my hat over my eyes so i could get some sleep. Bugaboos to rogers pass ski traverse from kari medig on vimeo. First day on the move, and the very first thing we had to do was skin over the bugaboosnowpatch col loaded down with 50lb packs. Acmg mountain conditions report archive new bloggerbased archive for the association of canadian mountain guides public mountain conditions report mailing list. We didnt feel the need for a rope, but thats a matter of preference.
As part of the rei coop family, were dedicated to making websites and mobile apps that help outdoor enthusiasts connect, share information and get out into the places they love to play. Assuming the col is impassable or very dangerous to ascend in a few weeks i have a few questions. Climbing in the bugaboos is always a highlight of the summer and definitely one of my favourite places to climb. When i was in the bugaboos 21 years ago, the bugaboosnowpatch col was a nice ramp, covered with snow and ice. Made by a snowboarder that day, in a roundtrip from the parking lot. In the dusk we took the longer but easier way to camp via the bugaboo snowpatch col. The rugged hike through wildflowers as you climb towards applebee, the mystic and grandeur of the spires as they glow in the evening light, and the long shadows draped across the glaciers as a lone headlamp weaves down the bugaboosnowpatch col. Rock n rope northwest our place to share trip reports. In addition to making us wet, the rain brought mud and rock slides down the bugaboo snowpatch col. The 11th annual bugaboos teens climbing camp turned out to be one of the best. Its known for being tough, committing and subject to poor weather. On the way back to the hut we decided to make the trip a loop, so we crossed the crescent glacier, and made our way to under the bugaboo snowpatch col since we wanted to get a look. Reluctant to subject myself to such abuse, i scouted the steeper righthand side, trying to pick out a sane route up the slabs and dihedrals, and around a few roofs.
First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since. We left camp at 0730h and went up the bugaboosnowpatch col. Scrambling up bugaboo crescent col was fine, but there was one insecure move, that made my back chill. Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. Rock fall from the bugaboosnowpatch col mountain project. One of them look so much like a friend of mine called dom. Teenagers follow in the footsteps of conrad kain the columbia. Colorado is in the safer at home phase with the goal of maintaining 6065 percent physical distancing.
For us the rock and vegetation was slightly damp, but the rock has good friction so just take care. The tru canadian mountain and ski guide apprentice alpine guide exam just came out from four days in the bugaboos. Bugaboos to rogers pass ski traverse powder canada. Near a rock band, we followed a bootpack across some snow to the right, passing over a small ridge at a wellcairned notch to access the next slabscree bowl over. I didnt use crampons since there were already good steps. Then another pitch of 5th class climb brought us to the summit. Sep 17, 2016 the bugaboosnowpatch bs col was reported to be in poor condition and very loose one of my dads friends girlfriends was killed in the col some years ago due to rockfall, and so rather than head through the bs col, we ascended to pigeon via the bugaboo glacier. Saw tracks on the very steep snow face of anniversary. The first step in tailoring this routine to fit you is to select a set of exercises. Accessing most of the west side routes of howser spire involves hiking over the snowpatch bugaboo col, and across the vowell glacier, and then descending through the pigeonhowser col. Aug 21, 2014 ugly bugaboo snowpatch col for the final tower, it looked like i could climb down and around the lefthand side on lots of loose sand and scree. We were soon strolling down the crescent glacier and following human footprints among the terminal moraines. Id heard the approach via the east fork foss river and necklace valley is a particularly scenic one and well worth the effort. The bugaboo snowpatch col is in really bad shape again due to all of the hot dry weather weve had this summer.
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